Snow and Seolleongtang

Snow!!

Today is the first time I have seen snow in Seoul so we decided to go out and take a morning walk around Gwanghwamun Square. We tried to go to Gyeongbokgung Palace to take some pictures but unfortunately it was closed today. You can check here for information and hours..I should have too!

Gyeongbokgung front gate with people dressed in hanbok
Gyeongbokgung front gate with lots of people in hanbok, traditional Korean clothing. You can rent hanbok to wear from nearby shops. And if you do, admission to the Palace is free.
Statue of Sejong the Great in Gwanghwamun Square during a light snowfall
Sejong the Great, king and inventor of the hangul language, seems happy to see the snow too.
Two girls in Gwanghwamun square in the snow
Cold legs…

Admiral Yi Sun Shin from behind in Gwanghwamun Square during a snowfall
Admiral Yi Sun Shin keeping an eye on things…
Man in green hat holding a mini bungeoppang up to his face to show the size
Mini-bungeoppang snack. These are fish shaped waffles with red bean or custard filling inside.
LG Twins baseball cap

We went to the KBL shop and I got an official LG Twins cap for summertime. I don’t usually wear baseball caps but this one seems to fit well. I like it. Sorry Doosan fans!

Seolleongtang

Seolleongtang in an old family owned restaurant in Seoul
Seolleongtang and doganitang for dinner at 옥천옥. One of my favourite meals here, doganitang is like seolleongtang except all cartilage. I always feel 5 years younger after I eat this. Both dishes are made with unseasoned long cooked beef bone stock, rich and white. Doganitang has noodles and cartilage inside, with ginseng and daechu and green onion. Seolleongtang is almost the same but has strips of beef, less cartilage and no medicinal herbs. You can season them with salt or kkakdugi juice.
A colourful old shack in Hwanghakdong Flea Market after dark.

We walked back through Hwanghak-dong. During the day this is a massive outdoor flea market crawling with people. After dark it is empty. I love the look of these old shops when they are closed up…the colours and the signage. Look at that coffee vending machine: it has a print of an old grandpa taking a little kid fishing.

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Welcome to Seoul / 도착!

Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul

A Jeju Air A320 in the rain

We flew Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul. The onboard service was efficient and friendly and we departed right on time. Once I sat down and pulled my seatbelt tight, I began thinking of the tragic Jeju Air accident in Muan that had happened only 2 months earlier. I was a little nervous every time we hit some turbulence and especially during the landing in foul weather. I knew that the chances of something bad happening was almost zero. But watching that crash footage on the news left impressions on me that logical reasoning had no power to erase.

Looking at the faces of the young flights attendants in the jump seats facing me, I wondered if they knew any of the crew onboard Flight 2216. I wondered if the pilots knew each other. I worried about them. After a bit of a rough landing in heavy rain and gusting crosswinds, the plane rolled up to the gate and we walked off into the airport. The flight attendants smiled and thanked us. For some reason, it all felt a little strange. Maybe I was just tired.

Our house in Seoul

Our 19th floor apartment in Sungin-dong is warm and spacious with a big sunny window looking west over the city. We have 2 queen sized beds, a couch and coffee table as well as little kitchen with laundry machine. The floors are heated (best Korean invention). Sungin-dong Airbnb

View from our window. You can see Dongdaemun and the old city wall to the right. Namsan tower is to the left.

Dinner with Minu

Minu! For our first meal out, my old friend and coworker took us for BBQ chicken and beers in the neighbourhood. I have known Minu since the early days of Pearl Diver when he was a cook in my kitchen on his working holiday visa from Korea. We meet up every time I come here and I am always happy to see him. For some reason, we always end up eating chicken! And it is always delicious! We have already discussed our next chicken meal : 닭한마리 (kind of a soup that has a whole chicken in it). 🐓 🐓🐓

An afternoon trip turned up some real treasures at Gimbab Records. I’ll post about music later…

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Sayonara Tokyo

Where are all the Tokyo food posts??

I think I am kind of tired of taking pictures of food. There are millions of food pictures online and, for me, they don’t have a lot of impact anymore. On this trip I am enjoying my meals without documenting them too much. The less I involve my phone in my meals, the more I seem to enjoy the food and the company I am sharing it with. In fact, the less I let my smartphone interrupt my experiences in general, the more I seem to enjoy whatever I am doing. I do miss the engagement with posts on social media a little bit. Writing on a site like this, you sometimes wonder if anyone is even reading it. I guess we are all a bit addicted to our little red heart “likes”. But, for now, I am enjoying the break from it.

Another reason for the lack of food posts is that we have a kitchen in our place, so we have been making most of our big meals at home. Our neighbourhood has many small grocery stores that are full of beautiful, high quality fruits, vegetables and fish. The rest of our meals are snacks on the road. Tokyo is a snacker’s paradise.

Consumerism Convenience Store in Tokyo
Consumerism Convenience Store (great name) is the place that we shop everyday for fresh fruits and veggies. Everything is perfect and the prices are about the same as at home, if not a little less. It’s not really what you would think of as a “convenience store” in North America. It is a proper small independent grocer.
Chiyoda Sushi takeaway stand in Tokyo photographed from the street
I bought fresh sushi/sashimi from Chiyoda Sushi almost everyday. There is a small sushi kitchen in the back and all the finished items are displayed for takeout in the glass fridges off the sidewalk. The fish and rice are always perfect. And the price for that level of quality is very very low. Sashimi is probably my favourite food so I was very happy to become a regular customer at Chiyoda Sushi.
Japanese Deli Saboten, a katsu takeaway shop photographed at night from outside
There are also endless choices for high quality takeout in the neighbourhood. This deli has a huge selection of golden fresh hot katsu of all kinds, with sides to make a full meal. Always busy.
Family rice cracker shop in Iriya Tokyo
This little family shop in the neighbourhood sells the most delicious rice crackers…perfect pocket snack.

Bicycles in Tokyo:

The cycling culture in Tokyo is very different from what I am used to at home. There are bikes everywhere: you can see them in almost any picture I have taken. The sidewalks here are shared by pedestrians and cyclists. Everybody is used to this and it works. Everyone cycles here: old people, little kids, business people with briefcases, moms carrying one on two kids on the front or back. Most buildings seem to have a space dedicated to bike storage. Same with subway stations. Bikes usually have one or two big baskets for carrying stuff around and every bike has a sturdy upright kickstand. Some bicycles have little calliper locks on the frames that go through the spokes on the back wheels but I haven’t seen any “New York Kryptonite U-locks” here. You could pick up any bike you wanted and walk off with it, but many people don’t seem lock them at all and I doubt that any get stolen. Maybe “borrowed” and later returned by a drunk person trying to get home after the trains stop (I saw this once in a movie haha).

Red bicycle parked on sidewalk in Tokyo
Tokyo man riding bike across road with crosswalk paint stripes
Bike with roses in Tokyo
Bicycles parked under plum blossom tree in Tokyo

Buildings:

Tokyo has all kinds of different architecture from steel and glass high rises to old wooden houses. By far the most common are low rise apartment buildings covered in ceramic tile. To resist earthquakes, concrete is the main construction material because it flexes and can withstand the shock. But, instead of having dull grey buildings everywhere, Japanese achitects have tiled most buildings from bottom to top. There are many colours and designs and I can’t help thinking of fancy vintage bathroom renovations you would see in a magazine. I think they are truly charming and beautiful with their saturated colours in the day and glossy shine at night.

Tiled building in Iriya

These are buildings in Kappabashi. I like the way they all look different, all in a row, with their whimsical details. Tea cup balconies and giant chef heads.

Kappabashi buildings
Kappabashi building detail
Kappabashi teacup balconies
Kappabashi chef head on building

This was our Tokyo home. A modest corner building of painted concrete:

Night photography:

I love to take pictures at night and Tokyo was a beauty after dark. These are a few shots I like that didn’t really fit into any other posts:

Construction workers dealing with a late night job. All the men from subway drivers to couriers to construction workers have colourful and stylish uniforms. It always makes me think of Lego men.

Iriya construction work at night Tokyo
Iriya construction work at night Tokyo

Akihabara at night. There are many city scapes in Tokyo where you can see all modes of movement mashed together and moving fluidly. Trains, cars, people, bicycles, buses.

Akihabara at night with train overhead

Beauty is everywhere:

My overall impression of Tokyo, the largest city in the world with a population of 41 million, is that it is quiet and peaceful. I am sure that it is not without its flaws, but from my point of view, it just works. Japanese society in general seems to value harmony. People are patient with each other. They approach others with respect and understanding. And kindness. I was walking around with my backpack open and the cashier at the grocery store turned me around and zipped it up for me with a smile. My daughter dropped a 5 yen coin under a table at another store and a teenage girl squatted down to pick it up for her. This city is absolutely overrun with tourists but most shopkeepers and people in the street are incredibly patient. More than I could ever be! This makes it an easy and comfortable place to visit and I have really enjoyed my time here.

What strikes me the most about Tokyo is that everywhere I go, I am struck by little moments of beauty and wonder emanating from the most ordinary things. There are a few in previous posts and here are a couple more:

Tokyo kids getting group photo taken
A group photo outside a giant Buddhist temple near Tsukiji. When they were done with the photo, all the kids yelled “Arrigatou Gosaimasu!” and then scattered down the stairs laughing. Their happiness on this warm sunny afternoon was infectious.
Colourful sake and beer crates
Stacked sake and beer crates outside a neighbourhood restaurant.
Woman with plum blossoms Kappabashi Tokyo
My daughter under a plum tree in bloom. She is the most beautiful and precious thing in my life and she has been a wonderful travelling partner. She is smart and intuitive and has a better sense of direction than me. We almost never get lost. In the past, I have preferred to do big trips like this by myself. But, the loneliness of long solo travel can be challenging and I am grateful that I don’t have to fight against it this time. I have sincerely enjoyed having someone to share all of these experiences with. Ok, see you Tokyo. Next stop Seoul…

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