Naksan Wild Cats and Kaesong Mandu Koong

Before heading up Naksan to look for cats and and eat mandu, we had to go to Seoul station:

KTX can’t take payments with foreign cards online right now so we went to Seoul Station to buy tickets. The station is huge and open and full of light and the buzz of travel. There are cafes and food vendors everywhere so you can buy a snack, sit on the steps in the sunshine and wait for your train. And you can go right down to the tracks even if you don’t have a ticket.

Seoul Station street view
Seoul Station view of the tracks with KTX train arriving
KTX bullet train: 305km/hour, Seoul to Busan in just over 2 hours
View from Seoul old city wall near Dongdaemun
From the Seoul City wall: Lotte Castle right in the middle is where our apartment is in Sungin-dong
Trail near Naksan Park along the outer wall
City wall outer path
Naksan wild cats
There are lots of cat colonies up along the wall. People feed them and they have bushes and grass to hide in and rooftops to sleep on.
Naksan kitten
As we were walking I said: “I usually start seeing cats around here” and this little kitten burst out of the bushes right in front of us. Perfect timing. I have never seen a kitten here before.
Woman feeding chicken to Naksan wild cats
Naksan wild cats get a chicken dinner
Naksan wild cats scratching branch
Nature’s scratching post…better than Ikea couch
Naksan cats
More cats…
Woman with Naksan cats
Even more cats…
Man on moped delivery near Naksan park up the old city wall in Seoul
Working man: I was taking a picture down the road and he just zoomed through.
View of Dongdaemun from above with 2 women walking
Dongdaemun ơn the way down
Mandu soup at Kaesong Mandu Koong
Meat dumpling soup 고기만두국 at Kaesong Mandu Koong.
Gwangjang Market
Quick walk through Gwangjang Market for some hotteok 호떡 on the way home.

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Snow and Seolleongtang

Snow!!

Today is the first time I have seen snow in Seoul so we decided to go out and take a morning walk around Gwanghwamun Square. We tried to go to Gyeongbokgung Palace to take some pictures but unfortunately it was closed today. You can check here for information and hours..I should have too!

Gyeongbokgung front gate with people dressed in hanbok
Gyeongbokgung front gate with lots of people in hanbok, traditional Korean clothing. You can rent hanbok to wear from nearby shops. And if you do, admission to the Palace is free.
Statue of Sejong the Great in Gwanghwamun Square during a light snowfall
Sejong the Great, king and inventor of the hangul language, seems happy to see the snow too.
Two girls in Gwanghwamun square in the snow
Cold legs…

Admiral Yi Sun Shin from behind in Gwanghwamun Square during a snowfall
Admiral Yi Sun Shin keeping an eye on things…
Man in green hat holding a mini bungeoppang up to his face to show the size
Mini-bungeoppang snack. These are fish shaped waffles with red bean or custard filling inside.
LG Twins baseball cap

We went to the KBL shop and I got an official LG Twins cap for summertime. I don’t usually wear baseball caps but this one seems to fit well. I like it. Sorry Doosan fans!

Seolleongtang

Seolleongtang in an old family owned restaurant in Seoul
Seolleongtang and doganitang for dinner at 옥천옥. One of my favourite meals here, doganitang is like seolleongtang except all cartilage. I always feel 5 years younger after I eat this. Both dishes are made with unseasoned long cooked beef bone stock, rich and white. Doganitang has noodles and cartilage inside, with ginseng and daechu and green onion. Seolleongtang is almost the same but has strips of beef, less cartilage and no medicinal herbs. You can season them with salt or kkakdugi juice.
A colourful old shack in Hwanghakdong Flea Market after dark.

We walked back through Hwanghak-dong. During the day this is a massive outdoor flea market crawling with people. After dark it is empty. I love the look of these old shops when they are closed up…the colours and the signage. Look at that coffee vending machine: it has a print of an old grandpa taking a little kid fishing.

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Welcome to Seoul / 도착!

Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul

A Jeju Air A320 in the rain

We flew Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul. The onboard service was efficient and friendly and we departed right on time. Once I sat down and pulled my seatbelt tight, I began thinking of the tragic Jeju Air accident in Muan that had happened only 2 months earlier. I was a little nervous every time we hit some turbulence and especially during the landing in foul weather. I knew that the chances of something bad happening was almost zero. But watching that crash footage on the news left impressions on me that logical reasoning had no power to erase.

Looking at the faces of the young flights attendants in the jump seats facing me, I wondered if they knew any of the crew onboard Flight 2216. I wondered if the pilots knew each other. I worried about them. After a bit of a rough landing in heavy rain and gusting crosswinds, the plane rolled up to the gate and we walked off into the airport. The flight attendants smiled and thanked us. For some reason, it all felt a little strange. Maybe I was just tired.

Our house in Seoul

Our 19th floor apartment in Sungin-dong is warm and spacious with a big sunny window looking west over the city. We have 2 queen sized beds, a couch and coffee table as well as little kitchen with laundry machine. The floors are heated (best Korean invention). Sungin-dong Airbnb

View from our window. You can see Dongdaemun and the old city wall to the right. Namsan tower is to the left.

Dinner with Minu

Minu! For our first meal out, my old friend and coworker took us for BBQ chicken and beers in the neighbourhood. I have known Minu since the early days of Pearl Diver when he was a cook in my kitchen on his working holiday visa from Korea. We meet up every time I come here and I am always happy to see him. For some reason, we always end up eating chicken! And it is always delicious! We have already discussed our next chicken meal : 닭한마리 (kind of a soup that has a whole chicken in it). 🐓 🐓🐓

An afternoon trip turned up some real treasures at Gimbab Records. I’ll post about music later…

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