Welcome to TigerSalad

a photo of website creator and chef writer of articles on travel, music, cooking

I built this website for sharing pictures, sounds and writing about travel, cooking, music or anything else I think is worth documenting. I wanted to have somewhere to do this without the distraction and noise of popular social media. Please take your time here: read, look at the pictures and listen to the sounds.

I have been a professional chef for most of my life and for the last decade I have been studying Korean food, language and culture. I have traveled to Korea many times to eat, explore and practice language. Cooking posts will mostly focus here.

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Amsterdam

Bicycle Kingdom

The first thing you learn as a tourist in Amsterdam is to watch out for bicycles. Bicycles have unconditional right of way in this city, followed by public transportation then pedestrians and lastly, cars. There is a strong and well established bike culture here with separate bike roads running along every single street and bridge and park. There are bikes everywhere. Everyone rides. And FAST! So, if you should walk across a bike road without having a good look both ways, you will cause an accident. In 2 days here I have seen near accidents a few times already. Usually an unsuspecting tourist wanders into a bike lane and gets yelled at if they are lucky or run over if not. With locals, it is understood that bikes go first.

Cycles parked along a canal. Small boats tied up on the other side.

Canals and Bridges

Amsterdam has around 165 canals with a total length of around 75km. And, there are over 1500 bridges crossing the canal systems to keep people moving over the water.

Typical tall, narrow house. Canals, bikes and bridges everywhere.
Houseboats along the banks of a canal.
Bikes, boats, bridges…
Most bridges have individual names. This is”Staalmeesterbrug”.
Storm clouds building over one of the large main canals.

Central Amsterdam Buildings

Although all of the buildings have unique details and architecture they all share a few similarities. Most are quite narrow and tall with big windows and very steep staircases. There are no tall buildings here. The tallest of these houses is probably four stories plus a small attic.

Shutters on old tall houses. Used to keep the weather out and also to keep goods safe from thieves. Many of these old buildings used to be warehouses for goods (like spices). Because of flooding, the expensive product was kept on the top floors while the bottom floors were more for offices and storefronts. Anyone who has read The Diary of A Young Girl by Anne Frank will be familiar with this arrangement.
Central Amsterdam is now a Unesco Heritage Site. The buildings cannot be altered in any way unless approved and absolutely necessary. Also, it is law that they must be kept in top condition by their owners or they risk having the government confiscate the property. Most of the houses are beautifully maintained with pretty details and tiny gardens wherever there is space.
Some of the houses across this canal are crooked. This is common in a few spots where they were originally constructed on swampy land and are now starting to lean over.
More crooked houses in the distance. There are many tour boats running all day long along the canal system. We took one and it was a lot of fun. I learned so much about the city.
People also have private boats docked all along the edges of every canal.
Big windows and beautiful details.
Typical street view. All the houses are different but also very much the same.

Old and New

With it’s narrow streets and bridges, tight corners and swarms of bicycles, there is no room for large cars. Instead there are lots of interesting tiny vehicles (many electric) that you do not typically see in SUV obsessed North America.

This is a tiny electric Fiat. It is so small that you can park it sideways instead of parallel to the curb. It is so symmetrical that it is hard to tell the front from the back from a distance.
VW Bug….a tiny car from last century.

Travelling Partners:

I am lucky to be travelling around the city with my good friend and his parents (who have no issues with walking non-stop 20km/day) …as long as there is a coffee and snack break here and there : )

Tour Guide
Family meeting.
Snack break. This is the best thing I have eaten here: Netherlands style cured herring. It is kind of hard to describe. It is not pickled like the more common herring you see around. Raw but…not exactly: it has the texture of a nice fatty sashimi fish. I asked one of the fish merchants how it is made. The herring season lasts for only a month in late spring/early summer. The fish are gutted and put whole into buckets of salt water and then frozen to -40 Celsius. Before serving, they are thawed extremely slowly and then hand filleted one at a time. Here they are served with raw onion and pickle. It is a unique and incredibly delicious fish preparation. I would recommend it to anyone visiting here.

Rain, Sun, Rain

The weather here changes FAST. It can be roasting and sunny for 10 minutes and then it clouds over and pours rain for 10 minutes. And then back to blue skies just as fast. It has been raining quite a lot with grey and gloomy skies so it has been a little challenging getting any good pictures.

This might be my favourite picture of this set. Milosz’s mom is looking up at a building from across the street while Milosz is inside buying stroopwafels with his dad. We ate them fresh and hot while standing under an awning in the pouring rain.
Rainy Amsterdam

Our Apartment

Some nice Polish tourists walking alongside the building where we are staying.
The house we are staying in has big bright windows on all sides that open wide to let in light and fresh air. The house has so many nice details but, for some reason, I like this stairway the best. Like all other Amsterdam houses, this one is tall and narrow. You have to climb a total of 57 steps to get from the entrance to the bedrooms on the top floor!
Egyptian Geese beside the canal near our apartment. There are so many unique birds here.

Public Transportation

There is a well organized and user friendly system of subways, trains, trams and busses running between every point you can imagine. Amsterdam is a very easy city to explore on foot or by train.

Subway headed to Centraal Station. Trains are quiet and clean.
There are a few trains that get tagged but it seems pretty uncommon. And anyways, they look pretty cool with some extra splashes of colour. I may try to capture some sounds later although we are travelling mostly by foot here.

First Impressions of Amsterdam

Amsterdam is a clean, efficient and functional city. There are people EVERYWHERE : pedestrians, cyclists and drivers. It is a busy and crowded place. But, it all seems to work. There are almost no traffic lights here but everything runs smoothly. The Dutch like to hustle along and they are good at it. Cyclists, pedestrians, cars, and trams all weave in and around each other through intersections at top speed and everyone seems to know and respect the system. It is a little dizzying but also awesome to watch during the rush hour.

Even though it is so busy, it is also very quiet. There are very few private cars in the city centre as there is very little reason or incentive to drive here. Bicycles outnumber cars by a huge margin. The city is noticeably quiet and the air is noticeably fresh and clean. Many cars are electric and the government has even mandated that all boats using the canal system must have electric engines within the next 2 years. Blasting music out of your store or boat is against the law. Police boats on the canal make sure that everyone complies with the rules.

The overall effect is that central Amsterdam is a city where people can enjoy being outdoors together with almost zero noise or air or water pollution. I can spend hours walking through crowds on busy streets in the centre of the city and still come home feeling relaxed and refreshed.

More to come…

Excerpts from the Circular File #1

The Circular File Cabinet

As a teenager, I had a job in a photography shop. Sometimes when we were organizing the office, I would come across piles of old invoices or memos. When I asked my manager how to deal with them, he would often say to put them in the “circular file” which meant the garbage can. At the time, I thought that was really funny and I still think of it when I am chucking paper in the trash. What you are about to read below is rescued from the “circular file” on my computer.

A Writing Exercise

My parents had several Czechoslovak friends who immigrated here with them and ended up driving taxi cabs. Even my dad drove a cab for a while. When I was little, I overheard quite a few stories about the passengers they picked up (only the most wholesome ones of course..I can’t imagine the stories my parents heard after i went to bed!).

Some time ago, I was in the middle of writing a long story in which a main character immigrates to Canada from the former Czechoslovakia and becomes a taxi driver in Toronto. At the time, I thought it would be useful to write a few little vignettes about possible passengers, just to get my mind into the space of the taxi cab. I tried to imagine a collection of different people my main character Jaro might pick up and how, in a short space of time, they could change the way he sees the world in some small way.

I ended up with a handful of them which I will post up on here from time to time. They are not really a part of the bigger work, just fun exercises. None of them are the real stories that I heard as a little kid. All these characters and events are fictional and any resemblance to real people and events is coincidental (as they say).

Jaro is the taxi drivers name in my story. In Czech, “j” makes a “y” sound. So, to pronounce it correctly in English, you would say Yaro. This is a very common male Slavic name.

Jaro’s Taxi Fares: The Translator

Jaro picks her up in front of the Fairfield Hotel on Bloor Street West. She pulls open the door, tosses her bag inside and jumps into the back.

“Hi” she says in a big voice, her round eyes beaming at Jaro in the rear view mirror. “Going to the airport, no rush so please drive easy. I don’t have a good stomach for fast car rides” Jaro obliges, trying to be gentle with the accelerator as they pull out into traffic.

“I don’t spend a lot of time in cars back home you see?”

Jaro asks about her home country and finds out that she is Sorosian. Jaro thinks for a minute and replies that he is not too familiar with Soros.

“Not surprised” she answers. He asks her if she knows Czechoslovakia.

“Sure thing…thrown together from parts of the the Hapsburg Empire after the first world war, occupied by commies after 1968, Velvet Revolution in 1989, Velvet divorce in the early 90s… Now the porn capital of Eastern Europe! Velvet PUSSY! HAHAHA!“ Jaro is slightly offended but also impressed. He laughs. She isn’t wrong.

She explains that she is here for a consultation on a James Welter novel she is in the middle of translating.

“To be honest, I didn’t need a consultation. I just made that up to get a free ride here. I have always wanted to visit Canada” she admitted. “I just write whatever I want anyways! HAHAHA!” she laughed maniacally.

“What do you mean?” Jaro asked.

“Well, the government of Soros is paying for translations of English novels into Soro to promote the language and keep it alive. Part of an Indigenous Language and Culture Preservation Program. There are about twenty-four thousand Sorosians left and less than half can speak the language…just the parents and grandparents mostly. The kids just want to speak English and watch Korean dramas.” Jaro nods in the front seat.

“Welter’s bullshit mystery novels seem to be popular everywhere so that’s why I got this assignment. The Sorosian government wants to translate these kinds of easy readers and then promote them in local bookstores and libraries. They hope that the kids might pick them up and read them in their native language”. Jaro keeps quiet as he takes a gentle right turn.

“But I’ll tell you that there isn’t one Sorosian interested in a Canadian mystery novel set in a quiet prairie town. Myself included. So when I get bored I just make up whatever I want. No one will EVER notice.”

“You really do this?” Jaro asks. 

“Sure! Like when Detective McCall is staking out the town library waiting for the Deauville Gang to break in and steal the Group of Seven painting?…I got so bored…I made McCall stake out a highway strip club instead. He gets bored and goes into the club, gets drunk on Seagrams 7, gets a lap dance and a HAND JOB! HAHAHA!” Jaro flushes a little at the language coming from this small well dressed academic.

“Welter can’t read it and no Sorosian will read that shit either!’ And certainly no one will read it in both languages and compare. So I am free to entertain myself while I get paid! HAHAHA”. Jaro chuckles.

“Anyways, I probably improved the book and I really just came here to see the snow. It doesn’t snow in Soros but I LOVE snow. There is nothing more beautiful to me. That’s why I came in winter. I spent the last couple of days near Collingwood. Lots of snow. Do you like winter?” Jaro was always surprised to find another winter lover, especially from a warm country. He replied that winter was his favourite season apart from the city driving and that he especially liked the sound snow made under his boots.

“I have travelled all over the place looking for snow and the best is Japan. The snowiest country in the world is Japan” said the translator.

“Japan” Jaro repeats as he eases on the brakes.

“Yes! Isn’t it surprising? For every centimeter of snow you get here, they get a meter. There are towering walls of snow along the roadways”. Jaro imagines an earthquake and what would happen to those snow walls on the highway…always imagining things from behind the steering wheel.

“If you really love winter, go to Hokkaido in January. I could die happy there”. Jaro replies that he is not sure if he will ever get to Japan.

“If you love winter, if you love snow, you should try to go…I went to translate a volume of Soseki Haiku and never wanted to leave. Do you know Haiku? Short poems, 17 syllables, nature? Absolute murder to translate into Soro but I did my best. They are just gorgeous, no embellishment needed. Definitely no handjob Haiku!! HAHAHA!” Jaro chuckled again and shifted in his seat a little.

“I love poetry the most. Novels are just so much noise and repetitive storytelling sometimes. All ego. Not poetry and definitely not Haiku.”

She pulled a small notebook out of her bag and opened it on her lap. She was silent for the rest of the ride. Jaro liked her sense of humour and her crazy laugh. He drove quietly hoping she would pipe up again but she seemed to be absorbed in her notes. When they arrived at Terminal 3, he pulled to the curb and walked around the car to let her out. She snatched up her bag and bounced out of the back seat.

“It was a pleasure meeting you Velvet snow man…I hope you take my advice”. Jaro laughed and said he would think about it. Just before she turned to go, she handed him a neatly folded page from her notebook.

“5-7-5” she said. Then she skipped off into the terminal building. Jaro got back in the cab, unfolded the paper and read:

If I disappear

Come find me here in winter

Snow white Hokkaido

He counted the syllables on his fingers as he read it two more times. 5-7-5. It was beautiful. He would think about it. He tucked the paper under the elastic band on his sun visor and drove away.

Natural Spotlighting

***your phone will crush all the details in these photos. It is better to view this on a bigger screen***

Facing East

Every morning I make coffee and then sit at an old table to study or write. My cat hops up, curls into a ball, and sleeps beside me while I work and listen to chill music. This is my favourite time of day. At the opposite end of the room there are a few tall and narrow windows that let in the bright morning sun. This warm light filters in through the trees, slowly circles the room, and then gradually disappears. This scene changes a little bit every day and every season brings a new variation. I never get tired of looking at it. In the picture below, you can see what I see on a summer morning…

Natural Spotlighting

I began to notice moments when a ray of morning sun would pass through gaps between leaves and illuminate some small part of the room as if to say: “look at this!”. Whatever it touched would glow in this focused light. It reminded me of a spotlight on a dark stage, but made of sunlight. It was kind of a natural spotlight. I wondered if there was some way to capture this in a photograph. I was pretty sure that it wouldn’t be easy.

Technical Difficulties

When I set out to make these photos, I decided that I wouldn’t move things into a spot of light. The scenes would just have to happen on their own and it was my job to notice them and to try to capture them with my camera.

One problem was that the weather had to provide hard contrast between areas of light and shade. All of the photos below had to be taken from a shady area pierced by a strong beam of bright sunlight. Less than a big-blue-sky sunny day wouldn’t work for any of these pictures.

The bigger problem was getting my camera to see what I was seeing in my imagination. It took hundreds of photos and nearly two months to figure it out. The main subject is intensely lit, but because the photos are shot on very bright days, even the shade is full of light, So, if I exposed the spotlit subject accurately, the background would still creep into the photo.

Most of the problem was solved when I experimented with severely underexposing all of the shots (like 2 to 3 stops of underexposure!). This caused the shadows to fade to black and, as a bonus, added rich colour saturation to the main subject. This underexposure usually worked to produce the photos that I was imagining.

The Photographs

One of the first things I noticed lighting up in the morning sun was this classical guitar head stock.
This piece of Korean baekja pottery earns it’s popular name “moon jar” in this shot.
Zizkov is the neighbourhood in Praha where my family is originally from. This is an old cap or lapel pin probably worn by a streetcar operator.
Another angle on the moon jar. This simple shape changes so much in different light.
This is the corner of a massive solid red pine table (you can see it in the first photo above). The little pin holes are from cat claws poking through the tung oil finish. The wood is incredibly dense and heavy. I think it would take 100 cats 100 years to do any permanent damage. The intense sunlight brings out great texture here.
Moody photo of a dark book.
This is taken in another room that has a single north facing window. In the summer, a tiny sliver of sunlight creeps in for a short time early in the morning. This is a black and white press photo from the film Fallen Angels.
Chinese Money Plant in clay pot. The bright sun brings out the texture in the clay.
Money Plant taken from the underside of the leaves.
Unknown plant at the edge of a forest. A single sunbeam caught the top of it.
From a garden at the University of Toronto.
Ginko tree at U of T.
Lily on a lawn in Rosedale. The garden was in shade with only this flower reaching the sun.
In the forest understory. Not sure what the name of this plant is…
Red berries at the forest edge. Maybe currants?
Green seed heads. These were very small.
These tiny flowers were on long wiry stems. Because it was so windy, I had to hold the stem to keep the flowers from swaying in and out of the frame. I didn’t really want my hand in the picture but after seeing it, I like the little shadow on my finger.
Grape vine reaching for the sun.

What John Irving said…

I once read an interview with the novelist John Irving where he said that his approach to writing is to start with the ending and then figure out how to get there. That’s where the hard work is. My approach to some photography projects is similar. I start with a specific mental image of a finished photograph and then figure out how to work with natural light and the camera to get there. This is never easy but I usually end of with something unique, something I haven’t seen before. If you are interested in seeing a couple of older photo projects that came about in the same spirit as this one, have a look here and here.

The images above are simple but making them was a challenge and I am happy with the way they turned out. I don’t do any photo editing other than some slight cropping sometimes. I try to get the photos that I want directly out of the camera. It’s not that i think that there is anything wrong with post-processing. It is just a different kind of photography and I don’t enjoy doing it.

I hope you liked these photos. If you have any questions or comments or if you know the names of any of the plants up above, please feel free to leave a message in the space below. I always look forward to hearing from you.

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