Posts in Category: Travel

Welcome to Seoul / 도착!

Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul

A Jeju Air A320 in the rain

We flew Jeju Air from Tokyo to Seoul. The onboard service was efficient and friendly and we departed right on time. Once I sat down and pulled my seatbelt tight, I began thinking of the tragic Jeju Air accident in Muan that had happened only 2 months earlier. I was a little nervous every time we hit some turbulence and especially during the landing in foul weather. I knew that the chances of something bad happening was almost zero. But watching that crash footage on the news left impressions on me that logical reasoning had no power to erase.

Looking at the faces of the young flights attendants in the jump seats facing me, I wondered if they knew any of the crew onboard Flight 2216. I wondered if the pilots knew each other. I worried about them. After a bit of a rough landing in heavy rain and gusting crosswinds, the plane rolled up to the gate and we walked off into the airport. The flight attendants smiled and thanked us. For some reason, it all felt a little strange. Maybe I was just tired.

Our house in Seoul

Our 19th floor apartment in Sungin-dong is warm and spacious with a big sunny window looking west over the city. We have 2 queen sized beds, a couch and coffee table as well as little kitchen with laundry machine. The floors are heated (best Korean invention). Sungin-dong Airbnb

View from our window. You can see Dongdaemun and the old city wall to the right. Namsan tower is to the left.

Dinner with Minu

Minu! For our first meal out, my old friend and coworker took us for BBQ chicken and beers in the neighbourhood. I have known Minu since the early days of Pearl Diver when he was a cook in my kitchen on his working holiday visa from Korea. We meet up every time I come here and I am always happy to see him. For some reason, we always end up eating chicken! And it is always delicious! We have already discussed our next chicken meal : 닭한마리 (kind of a soup that has a whole chicken in it). 🐓 🐓🐓

An afternoon trip turned up some real treasures at Gimbab Records. I’ll post about music later…

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Sayonara Tokyo

Where are all the Tokyo food posts??

I think I am kind of tired of taking pictures of food. There are millions of food pictures online and, for me, they don’t have a lot of impact anymore. On this trip I am enjoying my meals without documenting them too much. The less I involve my phone in my meals, the more I seem to enjoy the food and the company I am sharing it with. In fact, the less I let my smartphone interrupt my experiences in general, the more I seem to enjoy whatever I am doing. I do miss the engagement with posts on social media a little bit. Writing on a site like this, you sometimes wonder if anyone is even reading it. I guess we are all a bit addicted to our little red heart “likes”. But, for now, I am enjoying the break from it.

Another reason for the lack of food posts is that we have a kitchen in our place, so we have been making most of our big meals at home. Our neighbourhood has many small grocery stores that are full of beautiful, high quality fruits, vegetables and fish. The rest of our meals are snacks on the road. Tokyo is a snacker’s paradise.

Consumerism Convenience Store in Tokyo
Consumerism Convenience Store (great name) is the place that we shop everyday for fresh fruits and veggies. Everything is perfect and the prices are about the same as at home, if not a little less. It’s not really what you would think of as a “convenience store” in North America. It is a proper small independent grocer.
Chiyoda Sushi takeaway stand in Tokyo photographed from the street
I bought fresh sushi/sashimi from Chiyoda Sushi almost everyday. There is a small sushi kitchen in the back and all the finished items are displayed for takeout in the glass fridges off the sidewalk. The fish and rice are always perfect. And the price for that level of quality is very very low. Sashimi is probably my favourite food so I was very happy to become a regular customer at Chiyoda Sushi.
Japanese Deli Saboten, a katsu takeaway shop photographed at night from outside
There are also endless choices for high quality takeout in the neighbourhood. This deli has a huge selection of golden fresh hot katsu of all kinds, with sides to make a full meal. Always busy.
Family rice cracker shop in Iriya Tokyo
This little family shop in the neighbourhood sells the most delicious rice crackers…perfect pocket snack.

Bicycles in Tokyo:

The cycling culture in Tokyo is very different from what I am used to at home. There are bikes everywhere: you can see them in almost any picture I have taken. The sidewalks here are shared by pedestrians and cyclists. Everybody is used to this and it works. Everyone cycles here: old people, little kids, business people with briefcases, moms carrying one on two kids on the front or back. Most buildings seem to have a space dedicated to bike storage. Same with subway stations. Bikes usually have one or two big baskets for carrying stuff around and every bike has a sturdy upright kickstand. Some bicycles have little calliper locks on the frames that go through the spokes on the back wheels but I haven’t seen any “New York Kryptonite U-locks” here. You could pick up any bike you wanted and walk off with it, but many people don’t seem lock them at all and I doubt that any get stolen. Maybe “borrowed” and later returned by a drunk person trying to get home after the trains stop (I saw this once in a movie haha).

Red bicycle parked on sidewalk in Tokyo
Tokyo man riding bike across road with crosswalk paint stripes
Bike with roses in Tokyo
Bicycles parked under plum blossom tree in Tokyo

Buildings:

Tokyo has all kinds of different architecture from steel and glass high rises to old wooden houses. By far the most common are low rise apartment buildings covered in ceramic tile. To resist earthquakes, concrete is the main construction material because it flexes and can withstand the shock. But, instead of having dull grey buildings everywhere, Japanese achitects have tiled most buildings from bottom to top. There are many colours and designs and I can’t help thinking of fancy vintage bathroom renovations you would see in a magazine. I think they are truly charming and beautiful with their saturated colours in the day and glossy shine at night.

Tiled building in Iriya

These are buildings in Kappabashi. I like the way they all look different, all in a row, with their whimsical details. Tea cup balconies and giant chef heads.

Kappabashi buildings
Kappabashi building detail
Kappabashi teacup balconies
Kappabashi chef head on building

This was our Tokyo home. A modest corner building of painted concrete:

Night photography:

I love to take pictures at night and Tokyo was a beauty after dark. These are a few shots I like that didn’t really fit into any other posts:

Construction workers dealing with a late night job. All the men from subway drivers to couriers to construction workers have colourful and stylish uniforms. It always makes me think of Lego men.

Iriya construction work at night Tokyo
Iriya construction work at night Tokyo

Akihabara at night. There are many city scapes in Tokyo where you can see all modes of movement mashed together and moving fluidly. Trains, cars, people, bicycles, buses.

Akihabara at night with train overhead

Beauty is everywhere:

My overall impression of Tokyo, the largest city in the world with a population of 41 million, is that it is quiet and peaceful. I am sure that it is not without its flaws, but from my point of view, it just works. Japanese society in general seems to value harmony. People are patient with each other. They approach others with respect and understanding. And kindness. I was walking around with my backpack open and the cashier at the grocery store turned me around and zipped it up for me with a smile. My daughter dropped a 5 yen coin under a table at another store and a teenage girl squatted down to pick it up for her. This city is absolutely overrun with tourists but most shopkeepers and people in the street are incredibly patient. More than I could ever be! This makes it an easy and comfortable place to visit and I have really enjoyed my time here.

What strikes me the most about Tokyo is that everywhere I go, I am struck by little moments of beauty and wonder emanating from the most ordinary things. There are a few in previous posts and here are a couple more:

Tokyo kids getting group photo taken
A group photo outside a giant Buddhist temple near Tsukiji. When they were done with the photo, all the kids yelled “Arrigatou Gosaimasu!” and then scattered down the stairs laughing. Their happiness on this warm sunny afternoon was infectious.
Colourful sake and beer crates
Stacked sake and beer crates outside a neighbourhood restaurant.
Woman with plum blossoms Kappabashi Tokyo
My daughter under a plum tree in bloom. She is the most beautiful and precious thing in my life and she has been a wonderful travelling partner. She is smart and intuitive and has a better sense of direction than me. We almost never get lost. In the past, I have preferred to do big trips like this by myself. But, the loneliness of long solo travel can be challenging and I am grateful that I don’t have to fight against it this time. I have sincerely enjoyed having someone to share all of these experiences with. Ok, see you Tokyo. Next stop Seoul…

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Shibuya Scramble Crossing

There are thousands of great pictures of Shibuya Scramble Crossing from above so I wanted to do something a little different. I set up my camera so that it would focus on anything 2 to 5 meters in front of me. Walking through the crowd with my camera against my body, I shot many frames without looking through the camera. The result is a random assortment of crooked and out of focus photos but also a few fun candid shots. They look cinematic to me, almost like movie stills. I like black and white for people photos.

Here is a video I made of Shibuya Crossing with my iPhone today…it is not even that busy, it gets much thicker than this.

These are the best of the pictures:

Candid photo of girl at Shibuya Crossing
Even though some photos are out of focus, they still capture the emotion and energy of the scene.
Candid photo of young men at Shibuya Crossing
Young guys looking cool
Candid photo of girls in tiaras and school uniforms at Shibuya Crossing
One of the best shots: three high school girls in their uniforms, wearing tiaras. I love this one.
Lots of tourists like me taking lots of pictures of everyone scrambling through Shibuya Crossing.
Candid photo of smiling young couple at Shibuya Crossing
Cute smiling couple
This girl looks so cool, like she has somewhere important to be.
These two girls in their contrasting outfits with the two younger ones concentrating on their drinks in front.
Candid photo of cool looking woman in sunglasses at Shibuya Crossing
Sunglasses and wooly cardigan..so cool!

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