Tabang and Changdeokgung Palace

On March 9, 2025 0 Comments - Korea 2025, Travel

History was the theme of the day as we visited a tabang (traditional tea house) in Insadong followed by a quiet afternoon at Changdeokgung Palace and secret garden.

Traditional Teahouse (tabang) in Insadong

신옛찻집 is a small and sunny teahouse (tabang) serving a menu of traditional teas and sweets. We had ssanghwa tea 쌍화차, a medicinal tea made with many different herbs and roots, nuts and seeds. It is rich and dark brown, a little sweet, a little bitter. We also tried a pear and ginger tea 배숙, sweet and spicy. Injeolmi are soft and chewy rice cakes dusted with roasted soy bean powder. They are delicious on their own and an excellent combination with these teas. A warmup for Changdeokgung Palace.

A young woman bringing tea to tables at traditional tea house tabang in Insadong Seoul — Inside the tabang, traditional furniture and art pieces, open courtyard with stone and wood floors. There are many such teahouses in Insadong but this is the one we chose. Here is their Instagram Shin Old

The entrance to a traditional tea house tabang in Insadong Seoul

Hotteok 호떡:

I have tried lots of hotteok around Seoul and I always come back to these ones sold from a cart on the main street in Insadong. They are made to order so they are screaming hot and crispy.

Hotteok is a hot fried dough filled with honey, sugar and nuts These were made at a cart in Insadong

Changdeokgung Palace

Changdeokgung and it’s secret garden are great places to come for a long relaxed walk among beautiful buildings, gardens and trees. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All of the buildings flow with the natural landscape, like they have always been there. I think it is the most beautiful palace in Seoul but, surprisingly, not the most busy or crowded. It is especially pretty in the fall when all the leaves are changing. We were here just after noon today so the sun is high and bright and the colours are a little washed out. The pictures have a cool vintage look to them. Here is an official site with good info Visit Changdeokgung Palace

Different rooflines together at Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul — A maze of rooflines

A pond in the secret garden of Changdeokgung Palace. — Huwon, or Secret Garden behind the main palace grounds. This is a separate admission but well worth it.

Red and green building in the secret garden of Changdeokgung Palace

Beauty in the details….

Details of roof including colourful paint at Changdeokgung Palace

Looking through a building to the outside courtyard at Changdeokgung Palace Seoul

Roof detail Changdeokgung Palace secret garden Seoul

Paint detail Changdeokgung Palace secret garden Seoul

Green paper panelled doors at Changdeokgung Palace Seoul

Roof detail with colourful paint Changdeokgung Palace Seoul

Chimney with coloured brick detail at Changdeokgung Palace Seoul

I am a lightweight chimney enthusiast and this is a good one…

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Demonstration at Gwanghwamun and Four Seasons Tour

On March 8, 2025 0 Comments - Korea 2025, Travel

Before and after our tour of the Four Seasons Hotel in Seoul, we got to witness democracy in action during a demonstration at Gwanghwamun Square.

Four Seasons Seoul Tour

Today I connected with another old friend from the early kitchen days. I first met Shaun Anthony as a young cook at Canoe many years ago. Since then he has been travelling the world building his skill set and resume while working at some of the industry’s top kitchens. Recently, he became the Executive Chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in Seoul. This afternoon, he gave us an extensive tour of the beautiful hotel and all of the restaurants and kitchens within. It takes a very special skill set to operate an organization of this size and complexity. I am in awe of my old kitchen comrade and proud to know him. Thanks and congratulations Shaun! Check out this fabulous hotel here: Four Seasons Hotel . I hope I can stay here one day.

A meeting of old friends at the Four Seasons hotel in Seoul

Canoe restaurant kitchen crew circa 2002 — Shaun is seated on the left, I am in the middle. Circa 2002 at Canoe Restaurant.

Gwanghwamun Demonstration

Koreans have a long tradition of public protest. Almost any Saturday I have been near Gwanghwamun Square there is some type of demonstration happening. Today was a big one. Supporters of Yoon Suk Yeol, the recently impeached South Korean president, were out in the thousands. It was a peaceful demonstration but LOUD. Listen here:

demonstration at Gwanghwamun square 2025 showing US and Korean flags together

demonstration at Gwanghwamun Square in 2025 showing Korean and American flags together

Gwanghwamun Square demonstration with US and Korean flags waving

Woman cradles young boy at demonstration in Gwanghwamun Square 2025

Korean and American flags wave together at Gwanghwamun Square demonstration 2025

Old man on bicycle in front of Gwanghwamun demonstrators 2025

US and Korean flags in the air during protest at Gwanghwamun Square in 2025

Yi Sun Shin above the demonstration at Gwanghwamun Square 2025

The ruling on his impeachment is due as early as next week. I don’t think I want to be down here when that happens…well…maybe.

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Chueotang and Cheonggyecheon

On March 7, 2025 0 Comments - Korea 2025, Travel

Today I reunited with an old restaurant colleague for chueotang (loach soup) and later took a night walk along Cheonggyecheon stream.

History:

While I was a cook at Canoe Restaurant in Toronto, Gloria (a student from Korea) worked as an intern for a few months. I have not seen her for over 20 years but today we had lunch together at a chueotang restaurant near her home.

Canoe Restaurant Toronto crew circa 2002 — Around 23 years ago…That’s me sitting in the middle with a beer in my hand. Gloria right in the front.

2 old coworkers meet in Guri Korea for chueotang — 23 years later…wow

Canoe kitchen crew Toronto circa 2002 — Gloria also sent me this picture today. That’s me in the back with the crumpled chef hat. With the hat on I was almost 7 feet tall so I was always crushing it on the edge of the exhaust system hoods. David Castellan of Soma Chocolatemaker is right next to me. I worked for him shortly after I left Canoe and my daughter works for him now.

Chueotang 추어탕:

a bowl chueotang at a famous Seoul restaurant — Chueotang 추어탕 at 담터고개추어탕 This soup is made of ground up loaches that live in the muddy water around rice paddies. They are small fresh water fish like you might see in an aquarium. The soup is rich and strong flavoured. It is a favourite of mine. We also had some fried whole loaches…also very tasty.

The table and side dishes at a chueotang restaurant

Cheonggyecheon Stream:

Tonight we walked home along Cheonggyecheon. The stream cuts through the middle of the city for around 10km. It is peaceful place for a quiet walk surrounded by nature and city lights at the same time. After the Korean War this natural waterway was filled with concrete and the Cheonggyecheon Expressway was built overtop of it. In 2003, the government decided to remove the freeway and restore the stream as part of its urban renewal project. It was all finished by 2005. TWO YEARS! I can’t believe how fast. It is one of my favourite places in Seoul.