Ochanomizu Station and Cafe Lumiere

I was mesmerized by the closing sequence of Hou Hsiao Hsien’s “Cafe Lumiere” the first time I saw it. I have never forgotten this hypnotic urban landscape in motion. Yesterday, as we were walking over a bridge near Ochanomizu Station, I suddenly realized that I was seeing this same scene again. These are the kinds of discoveries that make travel exciting and they are the reason I try to walk everywhere. When you travel underground it is faster at the cost of missing all the “in between” things. Some of my best travel experiences have happened somewhere in the space between my departure point and destination. Today’s discovery is a perfect example of one of those serendipitous moments and it is one of my favourite things I have seen in Tokyo so far.

Here is the closing sequence from the movie. It is shot in slow motion from a slightly different perspective than my pictures.

I waited for over an hour to get two or even three trains in the frame at the same time. These are the best shots I got. Sometimes there are even boats travelling up the Kanda River underneath it all. But…trying to get everything in the picture at the same time is like standing around waiting for a solar eclipse to happen by chance. Hou Hsiao Hsien probably sent an assistant up to the bridge and made him stand there all day filming.

Ochanomizu passengers waiting for their train. View from Hijiribashi bridge
Passengers waiting for the train

Sounds of Ochanomizu Station. In the beginning and on other quiet parts you can hear birds chirping. These are electronic bird sounds which come from speakers near staircases. I think it is to warn blind people that there are stairs ahead.
Ochanomizu Station trains moving through
Yellow and orange trains…
Ochanomizu 2 red trains
Two red trains…
Red and yellow train…
Three trains! Red, orange and yellow. If you are very lucky or patient, you could get up to five trains plus a boat. Add a seagull or two for the gold medal shot!

Seeing this made me so happy.

A few days later, I went back to the bridge to try my luck again. After a couple of hours, I got this shot which I plan to print and display on my wall at home:

Ochanomizu station in spring from Hijiribashi bridge. 3 trains at dusk

2 Comments

  1. Reply
    luke February 24, 2025

    That closing sequence is so beautiful. Like urban mechanical caterpillars!

  2. Reply
    admin February 24, 2025

    Yes! Mesmerizing.

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